Setting up an Aquascape - Start to Finish

This comprehensive blog is designed to equip you with all the information necessary to confidently establish your first successful aquarium. We will cover all the essential considerations, provide expert tips, tricks, and discuss the pros and cons, ensuring that you feel confident to create and maintain your aquascape.

Before you start, there are a few things to consider when setting up your aquarium, if you have already selected your 'aquarium hardware' you might want to skip this first part.

Selecting your Aquarium

Choosing an aquarium can be overwhelming due to the wide range of sizes and designs Your choice of tank may depend on the available space, the type of fish you want to keep, or the kind of aquascape you want to create. Ultimately, it's your preference, but be sure to consider your plants and livestock at this stage.

Rimless Aquariums

These tanks typically don't have a lid and feature minimal silicone work. They have a very minimalist design, which means there are no distractions from the view of the aquascape - it's simply a glass box! These are ideal for those who want the aquarium to be the focal point in any room. Think of brands like ADA or UNS. All the scapes in our showroom are rimless tanks, which are also low iron, this reduction in iron results in a clearer, more transparent product that allows for higher light transmission and less green tint, making it ideal for aquariums where clarity is essential.

The cons of a rimless tank are that fish that are prone to jumping can escape the tank, one way to combat this problem is to keep the water level an inch or two lower than you normally would.

Shallow Aquariums

These are often used to create pond-style aquariums and paludariums to grow plants emersed (above the water line)

All-in-one Aquariums 

These tanks typically integrate a filter compartment and a heater, maintaining a minimalist and tidy appearance without exposing any hardware in the tank.

Once you have selected your aquarium, it's time to think about aquarium hardware, this is generally your:

• Lighting
• Filtration
• CO2 (optional)

Aquarium Lighting

Proper lighting is crucial for the success of a planted aquarium as it directly influences the health and growth of aquatic plants. There are several key reasons why adequate lighting is important. First, plants require light for photosynthesis, the process through which they convert light energy into chemical energy. Second, the intensity, duration, and spectrum of light impact plant growth rates, and different species of plants have varying light requirements. Proper lighting also helps in controlling algae growth by maintaining a balanced ecosystem and reduce the likelihood of algae overgrowth. Lighting enhances the aesthetic appeal of the aquarium, supports plant health, and facilitates the management of the photoperiod to simulate natural conditions.

We use a range of ADA Solar's and Chihiros lighting in our showroom aquariums

Aquarium Filtration

Filtration is a crucial component of any aquarium setup and plays a vital role in maintaining a healthy and stable environment for aquatic life. It is important for several reasons:

It helps remove physical debris, uneaten food, and waste products from the water, preventing poor water quality and harmful conditions for fish and plants.

Secondly, biological filtration systems support beneficial bacteria, which break down harmful substances produced by fish waste and decaying organic matter into less harmful compounds, crucial for maintaining a safe environment for aquatic life.

Furthermore, some filters also provide chemical filtration, removing toxins and impurities from the water, which is essential for sensitive species and when using tap water that may contain harmful substances.

Filtration systems promote water movement and surface agitation, increasing oxygen exchange in the aquarium, which is crucial for the health of fish and beneficial bacteria.

Regular filtration helps maintain stable water parameters, essential for the well-being of aquatic organisms. This reduces stress and health issues caused by fluctuating water parameters.

Additionally, filtration can help prevent algae growth by removing excess nutrients in the form of organic matter from the water, contributing to a cleaner and more balanced aquarium environment. A well-functioning filtration system keeps the water clear and free of debris, enhancing the visual appeal of the aquarium and reducing the frequency of water changes and overall maintenance efforts.

Types of Aquarium Filtrations Systems - Pro's and Cons

When choosing a filtration system for your aquarium, it's important to understand the differences between canister filters, hang-on-the-back (HOB) filters, and in-tank filters. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, making them suitable for different setups and preferences. Here’s a comparison of the three:

Canister Filters

External filters that sit outside the aquarium and use a series of media to filter the water. They offer high filtration capacity, versatile media options, quiet operation, and are less visible compared to other types of filters. However, they have a slightly more complex setup that may seem daunting to beginners (but we will be happy to demonstarte how these work in store), a higher cost, and space requirements.

Hang-On-The-Back (HOB) filters

These are mounted on the back of the aquarium and provide ease of use, good filtration, and a compact design. On the downside, they have limited media capacity, can be noisy, and may have an aesthetic impact.

In-tank Filters

These are placed inside the aquarium, are known for their simplicity, cost-effectiveness, and oxygenation. However, they have limited filtration capacity, consume space within the tank, and may be less effective for larger tanks.

Ultimately, the choice between a canister filter, HOB filter, and in-tank filter depends on specific aquarium setup, tank size, types of fish and plants, as well as personal preferences regarding maintenance and aesthetics. Canister filters are suitable for larger tanks or more complex setups, while HOB or in-tank filters may be more suitable for smaller tanks or beginners.

We use a range of Oase Biomasters and ADA Super Jets in our showroom aquascapes.

CO2 Injection Methods

Should you decide to use CO2 in your aquarium, it is important to note that Carbon dioxide (CO2) is essential in planted tanks. Aquatic plants utilize CO2 as their main carbon source during photosynthesis. With sufficient light, the plants convert CO2 and water into glucose and oxygen, promoting their growth and enhancing the overall health of the aquarium as well as increased oxygen production. Healthy plants help absorb excess nutrients from the water, contributing to a stable ecosystem and reducing the likelihood of algae growth.

It's essential to monitor CO2 levels, as too much CO2 can lead to harmful conditions for fish and other aquatic life. It is usually recommended to maintain CO2 levels between 15-30 mg/L for planted aquariums, depending on the specific needs of the species involved.

Note: CO2 can influence the pH levels of aquarium water. When CO2 is dissolved in water, it forms carbonic acid, which can help lower pH.

You can inject CO2 using:

Inline Diffusers or In-Tank Diffusers

These devices break down CO₂ into tiny bubbles, increasing the surface area for gas exchange with the water.

Reactors

These devices increase the contact time of CO₂ with water, improving absorption rates. They can be used with pressurised systems.

it is important to use a drop checker to ensure you are injecting the right amount, you should aim to have a nice lime green drop checker when the lights turn on, therefore you may want to start CO2 injection 2 hours before your lights turn on.

Non-CO2 Aquariums

Aquariums can thrive without the use of CO2 as long as you know your limits. It's best to choose easy plants; plants are generally categorized as easy, medium, or advanced based on the amount of light and CO2 they need to grow. Generally, easy plants can grow in a low to moderate light aquarium without CO2 injection, it is recommended to use a nutrient-rich substrate for growing stem plants, however isn't necessarily needed when using epiphytes as we have shown in our no CO2, no aqua soil tank in our gallery.

Aquarium Substrates

Aquasoil

Aquasoil is an effective method for providing essential nutrients to plants and maintaining stable water parameters.

This substrate is enriched with a wide range of vital nutrients, including macro and micronutrients, which are crucial for promoting healthy root development and overall plant health. Aquasoil creates an optimal environment for aquatic plants to thrive. Additionally, certain types of aquasoil are specifically formulated to stabilize and slightly lower pH levels, which is beneficial for creating suitable water conditions for specific types of fish and plants, especially those that thrive in softer, more acidic waters.

Aquasoils are designed to prevent compaction, which promotes robust root growth and substrate aeration while preventing the formation of harmful anaerobic pockets. The porous nature of aquasoil also facilitates the colonization of beneficial bacteria, which contributes to biological filtration, ultimately ensuring clean and healthy water for both fish and plants.

Furthermore, the fine texture of aquasoil makes it easier to plant and replant aquatic plants without disturbing the substrate or uprooting other plants, allowing for flexible aquascaping adjustments as needed.

Some aquasoils may initially leach nutrients, causing temporary spikes in ammonia or other parameters. It's important to closely monitor water quality during setup and perform regular water changes. 

Sand

Sand is a cost-effective substrate choice. It is suitable for tanks with only epiphytic plants, as it does not provide any nutrition. You still will need to add fertiliser to the water column to promote healthy growth, as these types of plants tend to be slower growing start off lean dosing. 

Root Tabs

You can use root tabs to revitalise existing aquasoil by adding nutrients back into the soil or directly feeding the roots of a plant. They are particularly helpful for greedy Amazon swords and aquatic lilies. You can also use them under sand to add concentrated nutrients to planted areas. 

We stock a range of root tabs online and in store.

Now that you have learned the basics, it's time to move on to the fun part: SCAPING THE TANK!

What are the Different Aquascaping Styles?

Now its time to decide on a style, there are so many different styles to consider. There are several popular aquascaping styles, each with its own aesthetic principles and techniques.

Iwagumi

Originating from Japan, it is centered around the use of rocks to create a natural landscape. Typically, it features an odd number of stones arranged in a triangular formation, accompanied by minimal plant life, often using grasses or other low-growing plants, and emphasises simplicity, balance, and harmony with nature.

Nature Aquarium

This popular style seeks to replicate natural underwater ecosystems and often involves a diverse range of plants and fish. It uses curved lines, asymmetry, and a mixture of hardscape with lush plants, and aims for a more organic, flowing look that reflects a natural habitat.

Biotope

A biotope aims to replicate a specific natural habitat, showcasing the particular plants and fish native to that region, often featuring specific hardscape materials and plant species, and is focused on ecological accuracy.

Dutch Style

This style emphasises the artistic arrangement of plants rather than hardscape materials, using a variety of aquatic plants arranged in groups based on color, height, and texture, which creates a colourful and vibrant look.

Jungle Style

Jungle styles mimic a dense, overgrown jungle or tropical environment, focusing on the lushness of plant life, typically involving tall, flowing plants, lots of foliage, and hidden spaces. This style aims for a dense and lush appearance, with an emphasis on vertical growth and hiding spots for fish.

Deciding on your style will dictate what species of plants and live stock you can keep.

How to Create the Hardscape

Now that you have the pre-scaping knowledge, you have selected your aquarium, filter, and light, CO2 and have decided on a style, it's time to get creative! This is one of the best parts of aquascaping (at least in our opinion). You're staring at a blank canvas that is full of possibility!

Firstly, when setting up your aquarium, the order of adding hardscape and substrate depends on the style of aquascape you're aiming for. For example, for an iwagumi layout, it's recommended to lay a layer of soil before adding heavy rocks to cushion them from pressing on the glass (sometimes is a good option to add something like egg crate under your main stones so they are not directly on the base of the aquarium). On the other hand, for a jungle style, you might find it easier to create a barrier of rocks spanning the tank from left to right, placing the soil behind and then adding the sand in front. This process is entirely based on your preference and the style of aquascape you've chosen.

Just remember, if you are using a sand foreground, make sure any gaps are filled with smaller stones, or with some filter floss, just push it into the gaps to prevent soil rolling into your sand foreground...it can be quite annoying to have to constantly siphon soil from the sand!

 Now, decide its time to decide on the layout, this brings us to...

The Rules of Aquascaping

Whilst there are various rules and principles to follow when it comes to aquascaping, it ultimately comes down to personal preference, but if we were to give you some advice to follow when creating an aquascape it would be to:

The Rule of Thirds in Aquascaping

Try and follow the rule of thirds...or at least, use it as a reference point, don't be afraid to break the rules sometimes!

The Rule of Thirds is a fundamental principle in design and photography that can be effectively applied to aquascaping to create a visually balanced and appealing composition. This rule divides an image or scene into a grid of nine equal parts, created by two equally spaced horizontal lines and two equally spaced vertical lines. The main idea is to position key elements of the composition along these lines or at their intersections, which tends to result in a more dynamic and interesting arrangement, as a rule, symmetry is not as visually appealing in aquascaping.

Focal Points

Create a focal point. This could be a plant, a rock, or a piece of wood that draws the eye in to a particular point, allowing you to explore the space. It gives the composition a purpose.

Create a Balance

Achieving visual balance in your aquascape is crucial to the overall look. This doesn’t mean everything should be symmetrical; rather, different elements should weigh visually against one another to create a harmonious look. You can use hardscape and plants to help achieve balance!

Negative Space and Shadows

Don't be afraid of negative space or shadows, these can add interest to areas of your scape and add drama, sometimes a focal point can be a blank space!

Take your Time and Don't Overthink

It's not a race, and creating an impressive aquarium hardscape doesn't have to be difficult. Some of the most striking scapes are made up of minimal hardscape and just a few varieties of plants. For example, a traditional iwagumi style uses just three stones, and when done well, it can look incredibly striking.

Imperfections Can be Hidden with Plants

The hardscape is the structure and backbone of the aquarium. If there are areas you aren't happy with or a piece of wood looks unnatural, you can use aquarium plants to your advantage to cover these imperfections.

It's Never Final... Well...Unless its for a Competition

You can always add and change things up with your scape, meaning there is always room to improve and get closer to your final goal.

Hardscaping Tips

• To secure your hardscape and prevent it from floating, you can use tissue paper or cotton pads along with cyanoacrylate glue. First, place a piece of rolled-up tissue or cotton between two contact points of wood or rock, then apply the glue over the tissue. You can hide the tissue by sprinkling some sand or crushed aquasoil over it, or by using moss or an epiphyte to cover it. This method will form a strong bond and keep your hardscape in place. We use MOSS Glue - Gel for plants, Liquid for hardscape.

• When using rocks, aim for odd numbers like 3, 5, or 7 for a more visually appealing look. The same goes for wood; if you have obvious vertical pieces, try to use odd numbers

• You can use wood in the opposite direction of the flow to create tension, this can add drama to your aquascape 

• Use the same or similar wood and rock to create a more cohesive looking aquascape. Also, vary the size and shape of your materials

• Take inspiration from nature or tanks that you really like and use them as a source of inspiration

• To create a sense of depth and dimension in your aquascape, try layering your hardscape materials. Place larger features in the background, medium-sized elements in the midground, and smaller stones in the foreground. Alternatively, you can use forced perspective techniques by placing smaller stones in the background and larger materials in the front to create the illusion of distance in your aquascape

• Consider the type of plants and the placement of the inlet/outlet and CO2 diffuser. This will make maintenance easier and ensure good circulation of flow and CO2 around your aquarium

Planting your Aquarium

Now your hardscape is complete, its time to decorate it with plants!

Plants are generally rated as Easy, Medium, or Advanced, which serves as a guideline for their lighting and CO2 requirements. Easy plants can grow without addition of CO2 injection and under basic lighting, while Medium plants need higher light levels and could potentially grow without CO2 injection, although it is highly recommended to use it for even better results. Advanced plants require high lighting and CO2 injection as a necessity.

They also have a position guideline based on the size of the plant. Ultimately, the decision is yours as it depends on the size of your aquarium. For example, a small-medium-sized plant could make a perfect background plant in a nano tank. Take this information as a rough guideline.

Planting Tips

• Aim for a substrate depth of 2-3 inches and use a good quality planting tweezer to plant with. If you want to build height with your substrate over 3 inches we recommend using a base layer under the soil such as, AF lava soil or ADA power sand. 

• Use aquarium powder soil in smaller tanks to help maintain scale. It can also be used on top of standard aquasoil to facilitate planting carpeting plants with small and delicate roots

• Choose plants that match your aquarium's lighting, substrate type and CO2 availability conditions

• Plan your layout - Design before planting: Sketch or plan your layout, considering height, colour, and texture of each plant

• Create layers with your plants to add a sense of depth and perspective to your scape 

• Remember to provide ample space for growth and carefully consider the mature size of each plant when spacing them out

• Consider where your inlet and outlet and any other hardware will be placed in your aquarium, its not advisable to have delicate stems in direct flow of the outlet

• Attach epiphytes (plants that grow on wood or rock) such as ferns, anubias, and bucephalandra by either gluing the rhizome, gently wedging them in a gap, or tying them to the wood/rock. Do not bury the rhizome, as this can cause the plant to die

• Keep spraying the plants so that they do not dry out whilst planting

Once you have planted your aquarium, slowly fill the tank with water, being careful not to displace the substrate, you can lay a paper towel or a bag over it the break and disperse the water.

So your Aquascape is set up, whats next? 

Aquarium Maintenance

If you're new to the hobby, it's a good idea to buy a water testing kit to check the levels of ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite in your aquarium.

In the first few weeks after setting up your tank, ammonia levels can rise because the substrate can leach nutrients. Ammonia is harmful to fish, so it's best not to start with fish right away. Wait a few weeks before adding any fish, shrimp, or snails.

For the first week, do a daily 50% water change to lower ammonia levels. In the second week, change 50% of the water every two days, by the third week test the water to see where things are at, if safe you can start adding small amounts of live stock and monitor daily for the rest of the week. If readings are still showing ammonia or nitrite continue with water changes. Once settled 50% water changes weekly are what we recommend.

Nitrogen Cycle in your Aquarium

During the first few weeks, we use Seachem Stability, which adds beneficial bacteria. These bacteria use the ammonia from the substrate and any decaying plant material (and later fish waste) to produce nitrite. Other bacteria then convert nitrite into nitrate, which plants can use as a nutrient, helping establish the nitrogen cycle.

The nitrogen cycle is crucial in aquariums because it converts toxic ammonia into less harmful substances, making the water safe for fish and other aquatic life. Knowing how the nitrogen cycle works is important for keeping your aquarium healthy.

Over time, nitrate can build up in the aquarium. Even though it's less toxic, high levels can still harm fish. Regular water changes and having live plants can help manage nitrate levels since plants absorb nitrates for growth.

The cycle is complete when ammonia and nitrite levels drop to zero, while nitrate levels are stable. At this point, your aquarium is ready for fish without risking their health.

 Here are the target levels to aim for:

• Ammonia (NH₃): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO₂⁻): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO₃⁻): Usually below 20 ppm with regular maintenance

Tips

• Don’t Overfeed: Extra food increases ammonia levels.
• Do Regular Water Changes: This helps reduce nitrate and maintain good water quality.
• Avoid Overcrowding: Too many fish can create too much waste and can disrupt the nitrogen cycle

Alongside dosing Seachem Stability, we use Seachem Prime to removes Chlorine and Chloramine, Prime effectively neutralises chlorine and chloramine, which are commonly found in tap water and can be harmful to fish and other aquatic life. It also detoxifies Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. 

Fertilisation

For the initial 10 days, we strongly recommend dosing with Seachem Flourish Advance. This phytohormone for plants significantly minimises the occurrence of plant melt, which is often seen in cryptocorynes. While this melting is normal, rest assured that the plants will recover. Additionally, Flourish Advance aids in establishing robust root systems, allowing your plants to absorb nutrients more effectively and rapidly through their roots.

We also incorporate potassium into our dosing regimen, as it plays a vital role in supporting root development and strengthening the cell walls of plants.

After the initial 10 days, you can transition to a weekly or daily fertilisation routine. It may be beneficial to start with a fertiliser that is free from nitrogen and phosphate. As your plants become more established, you can gradually adopt a more comprehensive fertilisation strategy, tailored to the number of plants you have and their energy demands. Remember, the health of your plants can provide valuable insights into potential deficiencies related to light, carbon dioxide, or nutrients.

Note: You may notice a white fungus on the wood, this is common on redmoor root wood but can happen on others too, it is not harmful to live stock but some people report that it can melt plants if it comes into contact, simply use a toothbrush and gently scrub it away and perform a water change, if it is safe to add livestock, shrimp and snails may eat it, but it will subside in a week or so. 

You may also get notice your water turning brown, these are tannins, an organic compound released from wood, this again can be cleared up by water changes or using Seachem Purigen in your filter.

Plant Maintenance

• Regularly trim and prune plants to encourage healthy growth

• Clean algae and detritus off plant leaves and trim back overgrowth

• Keep an eye on plant growth and investigate any issues such as stunted growth or yellowing leaves

Lighting Levels

If you have adjustable lighting, it’s best to gradually increase the light intensity to your desired level. In the early stages of your aquarium’s setup, a lighting duration of around 6 hours is ideal. You can work your way up to a maximum of 10 hours, with 8 hours generally being the most effective duration. Consider increasing the power by a few percent each week to ensure your plants acclimate properly without experiencing stress.

CO2 Levels

There isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution to this question. The most effective approach is to utilise a drop checker to monitor CO2 levels accurately. We recommend starting your CO2 system one-two hours before the lights turn on (people in harder water areas tend to need to increase this) This practice will ensure that the water is sufficiently saturated with CO2, allowing your plants to commence photosynthesis immediately when the lights come on.

Keep in mind that patience is fundamental in aquascaping. Achieving balance takes time, so enjoy every step of the process! We hope this helps you create your Aquascape!